Smoothwater - Lady Evelyn Loop

The following day the real work begins as we hit our first 2 portages of the trip and an entirely different sort of terrain. After a short lunch at the quaint Whitemud Lake we will be winding our way down a gravel bottom creek through a lush area of dense growth reminiscent of Amazonian jungle - keep eyes open for moose, birds, and schools of wild brook trout as they dart under our canoes through the crystal clear water.

After an afternoon spent hypnotically winding back and forth through a deepening creek of oxbows we round a final bend to behold a massive rock bluff rising from the creek bed. Here we will make camp for the evening and enjoy yet another stunning sunset view high above the waterway.

This is the day of testing. After 4 days of settling into life on the Trail we start with the longest portage of the trip to reach one the highest and one of the most stunning lakes of Temagami - Sunnywater. White quartz boulders and Old Growth pines line the shore of this lake that is nearly a windex blue, with clear views to over 100' deep. We make camp here at a slope of rock that reaches out into the lake. Swim and soak sore muscles in the cool, clear waters and be proud of an achievement few others can boast of.

On day 6 we begin our descent back to Smoothwater Lake and pass through the Aurora Trout Nature Reserve - the only place in the world that this mystical trout can be found. Midday will see us arriving back at the brilliant white sand beach of Smoothwater where we will relax, fish and enjoy a final night around the fire together. A short, 3 hour paddle brings us back to the vehicles the following morning.

This journey begins with an ascent of the Montreal River to the mythological birthplace of the N'Daki Menan region at Smoothwater Lake. It's here that Anishnaabe legend has it, the world was reborn from the depths of its crystalline waters. True to its namesake, it often feels as though one is paddling across the sky.

Here we will camp on a picturesque crescent-moon beach of white sand, as across the lake the sun sets over some of the highest peaks in all of Ontario. After sundown we'll explore some of the lore and myth surrounding this massive and incredibly deep body of water before falling asleep to the sound of waves gently lapping at the shore.

Our fourth day begins with more river paddling and some of the best wildlife viewing of the entire trip. Moose abound. We will stop for lunch at one of my favourite fishing holes and try our luck at landing a couple of fat trout. By midday the river widens significantly and picturesque rock outcrops and escarpments become more commonplace. Camp will be made just south of Chance Lake at a beautiful site carpeted with fragrant pine needles and another incredible view of the setting sun.